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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. But, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the family totally shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary honour.